Microneedling, a minimally invasive skin rejuvenation technique, has emerged as a popular choice in cosmetic skincare. Its principle lies in the creation of tiny punctures in the top layer of the skin using extremely thin needles. This controlled skin damage stimulates the body’s natural healing process, leading to the production of collagen and elastin, essential proteins that maintain the skin’s firmness and smoothness.
In this article we ask a series of questions to help us better understand how it works, who it’s for and ultimately should you do it? We’ll start with a bit of background on how microneedling came to be.
The Fascinating Origins of Microneedling
For centuries humans have been sticking needles into their skin, with practices documented in Traditional Chinese Medicine dating as far back as 305 – 204 B.C. However, the origins of acupuncture pre-date these early texts, with archaeological evidence going back more than 4000 years to 2000 B.C. This was around about the time the bronze age started in China. Findings from this time unearthed special tools called Bian Shi, stones that had been shaped into fine points. These were typically used to treat various ailments through puncturing or scraping of the skin.
While acupuncture is still in use today, the techniques and tools used are quite different to what is used in cosmetic microneedling. The history of today’s cosmetic microneedling goes back several decades and has evolved through scientific breakthroughs and technological advancements.
Today’s microneedling can be traced back to the middle of the 20th century. The post WWII era saw significant advancement in medical and surgical techniques, partly driven by the war’s aftermath and a rise in societal emphasis on appearance and aesthetics. War related injuries saw an increased focus on reconstructive surgery and dermatological treatments to address scars and injuries, and it was around this time that dermatologist began experimenting with skin puncturing techniques to treat facial scars.
It took a few more decades before the formal concept of microneedling got its name. In the late 1990’s Dr. Desmond Fernandes developed a small needle stamp to treat scars and wrinkles. This led to the development of the first “dermaroller”, a drum-shaped tool, studded with fine needles that’s rolled over the skin to create multiple microscopic punctures. At the time, evidence of the efficacy of such treatment was purely anecdotal. It didn’t take long before the scientific community began backing the claims with multiple studies helping validate what had been seen through clinical applications of microneedling.
Three decades on, the benefits of microneedling are well documented and understood. Today we see further enhancements of microneedling technology, with motorised microneedling pens, combined therapies and home-use devices.
Types of Microneedling
There are 7 main types of microneedling in common use today, each with their own advantages.
1. Classic or Standard Microneedling
- Description: Involves the use of a dermaroller, a handheld device with a roller covered in tiny needles. The roller is moved across the skin, creating micro-injuries that stimulate the body’s natural healing process and collagen production.
- Uses: Effective for reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and minor scarring. It’s a popular choice for overall skin rejuvenation.
2. Motorized Microneedling or Microneedling Pens
- Description: Utilizes an electric or battery-powered pen-like device that contains a cluster of fine needles. These needles move in and out of the skin at a high speed, allowing more precise control over depth and area.
- Advantages: More precise than the dermaroller, causing less surface trauma. Ideal for targeted treatment areas.
3. Radiofrequency (RF) Microneedling
- Description: Combines microneedling with radiofrequency energy. The needles penetrate the skin and deliver RF energy at varying depths.
- Benefits: Enhances skin tightening and rejuvenation. Effective for deeper wrinkles, skin laxity, and acne scarring. The RF energy boosts collagen and elastin production more intensively.
4. Fractional Microneedling
- Description: A variant that involves making micro-injuries in a fractionated pattern, allowing for targeted treatment and quicker healing.
- Uses: Particularly beneficial for treating specific problem areas while sparing surrounding healthy skin.
5. Microneedling with PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma)
- Description: Involves applying PRP, derived from the patient’s blood to the skin during or after the microneedling procedure.
- Advantages: PRP contains growth factors that can enhance healing and rejuvenate the skin. This combination is often used for anti-aging treatments, improving skin texture, and scar reduction.
6. At-Home Microneedling
- Description: Involves using devices with shorter needles for personal use at home.
- Note: These devices are less effective than professional treatments and carry a higher risk of infection if not properly sterilized.
7. Cosmetic Needling
- Description: Uses the shortest needles (usually up to 0.3 mm) and doesn’t penetrate beyond the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin).
- Purpose: Primarily used to enhance the absorption of skincare products rather than for collagen induction therapy.
Each type of microneedling caters to specific cosmetic needs, ranging from superficial skin enhancement to deeper tissue repair and rejuvenation.
Professional vs Home Microneedling
While DIY microneedling is an affordable alternative, it’s often less effective and carries additional risks. Home-based tools usually have shorter needles (less than 1mm), meaning they are generally only suitable for shorter term superficial treatment, but reduced risk of potential harm that could be caused by improper use. Additionally, there’s a higher chance of infection if not properly sanitised, stored or used incorrectly.
Professional microneedling, conducted by a dermatologist or aesthetician, generally yields more notable results compared to at-home methods. The professional procedure uses longer needles (1mm to 3mm) for more controlled wounding and visible improvements. Technique and experience play a crucial role in the effectiveness of the treatment.
Microneedling at a clinic is often targeted at deeper skin issues than what can be achieved in a home setting.
Who’s it for?
Microneedling is generally well tolerated by most people. Individuals with enlarged pores, fine lines, loose skin, mild scars, skin discoloration, or stretch marks might find microneedling beneficial.
So how does making a bunch of holes in my skin help?
To understand this, we need to go into a little bit of detail about the body’s natural defence and healing mechanisms. Your body has a remarkable and complex biological process that kicks in almost immediately after the micro-needles make superficial punctures across your skin.
Immediately after the puncture, the body’s inflammatory response kicks in. This is your immune system detecting a break in your skin barrier and sending in legions of Neutrophils, a type of white blood cell. As these cells arrive at the puncture site, they begin to release growth factors and cytokines, a category of small proteins that help communicate with your immune system, regulate inflammation and wound healing. These molecules are crucial for initiating the healing process. Growth factors like PDGF (Platelet-Derived Growth Factor), TGF-β (Transforming Growth Factor-beta), and others play a vital role in next stages of wound healing as we’ll see.
The next stage is where the magic happens. This is usually referred to as the proliferation phase and it’s where collagen and elastin get a new lease on life. Fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen production, are activated by the growth factors released during the inflammatory phase. These activated fibroblasts start producing new collagen (mainly Type III collagen initially, which is later replaced by Type I collagen) and elastin. Collagen provides structural support to the skin, while elastin gives it elasticity.
Along with collagen and elastin, new blood vessels and extracellular matrix are formed. This phase leads to the development of granulation tissue, which replaces the initial clot formed at the wound site.
The newly formed collagen is gradually replaced by stronger Type I collagen, which is more organized and resilient. This phase can take several months and is crucial for the strength and long-term integrity of the healed tissue. As the collagen matures and the skin structure becomes more organized, the texture of the skin improves, reducing the appearance of scars, wrinkles, and other skin imperfections.
Often special topical treatments are applied to help speed up the process. The microchannels created by microneedling enhance the permeability of the skin, allowing better absorption of these treatments, and quicker healing and collagen synthesis.
Side Effects
Because professionals will often use longer needles than what you can get for home use, these will penetrate the skin deeper. Some of the side effects that are common as a result, while usually short-term, are: redness, inflammation, swelling, skin flaking, itchiness, irritation, rashes and bruising.
Should You Consider Microneedling?
Because microneedling is a minimally invasive cosmetic procedure, it can be an effective option for those looking to rejuvenate their skin, minimize the appearance of scars, reduce wrinkles, and improve skin texture. This procedure is particularly beneficial for individuals dealing with acne scars, aging signs like fine lines, uneven skin tone, and enlarged pores.
When contemplating microneedling, it’s essential to assess your skin’s needs and the specific concerns you wish to address. For minor improvements or maintenance, at-home microneedling with devices that have shorter needles may be sufficient. These devices can enhance the absorption of skincare products and offer some level of skin rejuvenation. However, for more significant skin issues such as deep scars, pronounced wrinkles, or substantial loss of skin elasticity, professional microneedling in a clinic is recommended. Professional treatments use longer needles for deeper skin penetration, leading to more pronounced collagen production and skin healing. Moreover, professional settings ensure sterile conditions, reducing the risk of infection and ensuring the procedure is conducted with the right technique.
Consulting with a dermatologist or skincare specialist is advisable to determine the most suitable approach for your skin type and concerns, ensuring safe and effective treatment.
